When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.
This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.
“I am completely shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.
This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.
The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.
The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.
Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.